Wednesday, July 18, 2007

Cookbooks and more Cookbooks



These are all cookbooks. And I have another 5-8 more books sitting around in different places in my kitchen too. Once upon a time I was able to decoratively arrange my cookbooks - some standing up, a few short piles in strategic places lying flat. That was a long time ago. I haven't counted all my cookbooks, but they surely number over 100. And I have no more room in the cabinet. None whatsoever. Some years ago I did perform a necessary purge. I simply had to get rid of some of them. It was agonizingly difficult. Even though there are many of these that I never refer to anymore, one just never knows. Maybe tomorrow would be the day I need that very book I just gave away.

But then, I'm that way about all books. Not wanting to get rid of them. With my non-cook book collections, my desire is to keep them all. Tattered paperback or brand new hardbacks. No matter. I like them all surrounding me. My biographies collection resides in our downstairs guest room. I always know where to find them. Non-fiction fills another book case in my office upstairs. And the fiction, the largest by far, fills all of the other bookshelves in the office. I like to gaze at those spines now and then and recollect how much I enjoyed reading the pages in between. I like looking at the multiple books I own by a few authors, like Anita Brookner, Ludlum, Rutherford. I do loan them out now and then. Sometimes I get them back. Not always, even though I tell the borrower I want them back. I don't keep a log, so don't remember who I gave them to. But that's okay, as long as somebody is reading them. A friend once asked me why I kept my novels. She, a librarian, doesn't keep any. I marveled at her ability to give them away, or just borrow them from the library. She asked me, do you ever read them a second time? Well, no I don't. Why keep them, then? Why indeed. But I do.

But cookbooks. I DO refer to them. I have a 12-volume cookbook encyclopedia - the Woman's Day Encyclopedia of Cookery. It was given to me back in the 1960's by my former father-in-law. He had an in with the publisher. I still refer to those books time and time again. I don't much use the recipes, but I look up information. It's full of advice about how long you can keep things, calorie counts, methods of cooking and really basic information about the origin of foods, spices, ingredients. And of course, it contains lots of recipes. The books, although published in 1966, are worth a bit if you have the whole set (I do). A whopping $74.99. But I can't part with them. Even at that price.

I have cookbooks that reflect a bygone era - like Vincent & Mary Price's large volume about cooking, A Treasury of Great Recipes. Published back in the late 1960's the mostly French recipes are heavy with butter and cream and sauces. I could sell it for $20 on ebay. But no, I'll hold onto it, thank you. Why? I really don't know. Likely I'll never make a single one of the recipes in it. I don't know that I ever have. But I choose to keep it. I like it's large shape. Heavy, padded cover, even. And it contains lots of photographs of Vincent Price's home and kitchen. Not that I was a fan of his acting. I wasn't. But, I just like glancing at the book now and then.
Then, as with most cooks of my generation, I have a copy of the Joy of Cooking. It was by far the most popular cookbook of the 1960's. I still have my copy, food spattered and all. I rarely refer to it anymore, but I don't want to give it away, either. A couple of years ago I read the biography of Irma S. Rombauer, Stand Facing the Stove. In it you learn about her life, of course, but many interesting stories about how the publisher of Joy took such unfair advantage of Irma in the publishing of the cookbook. But it was revealing too, because Irma Rombauer really didn't have much of an interest in cooking, certainly no love for it, but she saw a need and thought she could, with a great deal of work, create a cookbook that would be useful and sale-able. She was a single mother (her husband committed suicide) who had never worked, and needed to provide a living for her family. Unfortunately, she saw very little of the earnings from the printing and reprinting of her book and the multitude of other books Bobbs-Merrill printed using the names of Irma and her daughter. The publisher took grave and unfair advantage of her naivete. Versions written after 1976 were compiled by the publisher and the Rombauer family was not consulted.

In 2006, however, the Rombauer family rewrote the original Joy in its new 75th Anniversary Edition. I have a hankering to get that version, although I don't know that I'll be willing to forgo my old spattered copy. Numerous famous chefs were consulted and wrote some parts of this new book, bringing it fully up to date.

One of the things some food bloggers do is present a list of favorite cookbooks. I have several, but I must tell you that when I'm searching for something new to cook, I may consult 10-20 of my cookbooks before I decide. Or I may combine two or three recipes from different books. So what I will give you is a list of the books that I seem to refer to more often than others. Maybe I'll create a sidebar box for this list too.
The Silver Palate Cookbook (the original one, 1982), Lukins & Rosso. The original book that I have is out of print, but click on the title and you'll get to the 25th anniversary edition.


Thrill of the Grill, Chris Schlesinger. Available at a bargain price at Amazon, through their used book resellers.




Barefoot Contessa at Home, Ina Garten. You may still be able to buy this at Costco. It's been out for several years, but she's very popular and they've done umpteen reprintings.


Weir Cooking in the City, Joanne Weir. She's one of my favorite cooking class instructors, but rarely comes to Southern California. She has a cooking show on PBS that I Tivo whenever it's on. She's much more out-there and fun in person than she is on the show. She says the producers make her tone down her crazy, vivacious personality. One day, Cherrie and I are going to take one of her week-long classes in Tuscany. She has her own website.

A Cook's Tour of Sonoma, Michelle Anna Jordan. A smallish paperback book from a former caterer in Sonoma. I have several recipes from this book that are favorites. There is a new edition - if you click on the book title link, you'll get to it.

Slow Mediterranean Kitchen, Paula Wolfert. More a wintertime kind of reference, but everything I've cooked from this book has been wonderful. She's a well known writer and author who lives in Europe, although she's American.


Barbecue! Bible (new), Steve Raichlen. I bought this at Costco recently for $11.99, and have referred to it many times, so I think this will become a favorite.

Baking: From My Home to Yours, Dorie Greenspan. I think I've written about Dorie before. She's quite a globetrotter, but a baker extraordinaire. She has her own blog, and I love reading her stories. If I want to bake something, this is my go-to book now.

Another day I'm going to write up my favorite food writing books (enjoyed more for the reading than for the recipes). I have a bunch of those too. But if you know me, you know that already! I'm one of Amazon's best friend!

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